Thursday, September 20

i surf because

I remember the first time [my son] ever caught a wave, and he looked back at me. He had the same reaction on his face as if he'd just won the world title or something. You know it's that feeling you get when you're riding a wave. It's like the moment you realize something special beyond belief is happening because the thing that you're riding will never break like that again.

 - Donavon Frankenreiter, from i surf because short film